This collection was a challenge for us to revive the long forgotten art of hand woven engineered textile. Creating a panel size repeat of a large curvilinear design was a monumental task for draughtsmen. Several inventive measures and old craft practices led to the increase in capacity of designs, construction and repeat size. We’ve used traditional design vocabulary harmonizing the prevalent skill set of the weaver in order to understand the numerous future possibilities for this technique and imparting training and enhancing the skill set of the weaver. Despite having been worked and developed various weaving clusters of India, we chose Varanasi for its technical mastery for achieving intricate designs and patterns. The entire collection is developed using the peculiar kadwa Brocade technique of Varanasi. Kadwa implies to the ornamentation of motifs using extra weft. The patterns, etched in gold against silk background achieved a remarkable clarity of pattern and forms with gem like enamelling. To understand the drapability and fullness of the garment, we sought solace in ever astounding craft tradition and studied historical garments such as lehnga, Pajama, pants and Sharara. We’ve palpated with different weight of yarns, weaves and finishing, achieving a suitable textile which is appropriate for stitching with best of fall and fullness.
Photographed by : Prarthna Singh
CHARULATA LEHENGA (L) POLKI LEHENGA (R) NOHAR CHOLI, SANGANER ODHNI
CHARULATA LEHENGA, KAWAI BUTA ALLOVER DUPATTA
SHYAMLI LEHENGA, KASTURI DUPATTA
CHAKOR LEHENGA, NOHAR BLOUSE
BHANUMATI KURTA, TIJARA PAJAMA
PADMA DRESS
IMARTI KURTA, NOKHA PAJAMA
CHAKOR LEHENGA, SUNEHRI CHOLI, MOGRA ODHANI
NAGAUR KURTA, NOOAN PAJAMA
TASHI LEHENGA, PALI BLOUSE
NIKHAT IMARTI KURTA, NOKHA PAJAMA
IMARTI KURTA, MURARI DUPATTA
PADMINI JACKET, GOYLI LEHENGA
CHAKOR LEHENGA, PALI BLOUSE, SANGANER DUPATTA
SHYAAMLI LEHENGA, NIKHAT BLOUSE, NIKHAT ODHANI
NEER DRESS, SANGANER ODHANI
MOOMAL LEHENGA , NOHAR BLOUSE , MOGRA ODHANI
SUNEHARI SARI
BHAWARI KURTA, NOKHA TROUSER
GHOOMAR LEHENGA, NOHAR CHOLI, NIKHAT ODHANI
KARNAWATI DRESS
BHAWARI KURTA, SHABATI PAJAMA, MURARI ODHANI
POLKI LEHENGA, PALI CHOLI, SANGANER ODHANI
INDRAWATI JACKET, TIJARA PAJAMA