This collection was a challenge for us to revive the
long forgotten art of hand woven engineered textile.
Creating a panel size repeat of a large curvilinear
design was a monumental task for draughtsmen.
Several inventive measures and old craft practices
led to the increase in capacity of designs, construction
and repeat size. We’ve used traditional design
vocabulary harmonizing the prevalent skill set of the
weaver in order to understand the numerous future
possibilities for this technique and imparting training
and enhancing the skill set of the weaver. Despite
having been worked and developed various weaving
clusters of India, we chose Varanasi for its technical
mastery for achieving intricate designs and patterns.
The entire collection is developed using the peculiar
kadwa Brocade technique of Varanasi. Kadwa implies
to the ornamentation of motifs using extra weft.
The patterns, etched in gold against silk background
achieved a remarkable clarity of pattern and forms with
gem like enamelling. To understand the drapability and
fullness of the garment, we sought solace in ever
astounding craft tradition and studied historical garments
such as lehnga, Pajama, pants and Sharara. We’ve palpated
with different weight of yarns, weaves and finishing, achieving
a suitable textile which is appropriate for stitching with best of
fall and fullness.
Photographed by: Prarthna Singh